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  #31 (permalink)  
Old 05-23-2007, 09:27 PM
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reading about your problems and posting my own makes me really feel thankful i found this web
site i know we are all in the same boat. i would help if could but Thanks CODY for trying to help
us all!!!!!!!
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  #32 (permalink)  
Old 05-29-2007, 02:36 PM
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My contact in Indy has gone out of business. I have dealt with the company that RRL suggested, and they did an outstanding job on the motors we sent back to them for repair.

Cody Stamper



(Note: The opinions expressed in this post are my own and are not necessarily those of machinetoolhelp.com and its management)
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  #33 (permalink)  
Old 06-08-2007, 01:33 PM
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Thanks for the info RRL. I havnt called them yet. But will next week. I had to step back from this problem last week.It was making me crazy. I loaded the quads and dirt bikes in the truck, and went to the dunes for a long weekend. Darn that was fun!! This weekend I have a few projects and should be focusing on this by late next week.

darren, This forum has been a blessing to me so far.
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  #34 (permalink)  
Old 06-22-2007, 01:22 PM
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I finally started back on this problem this week. I made a sort of press like fixture and was able to shear/press the magnets loose from the housing. Tonite Im going to try and figure out how to locate the magnets correctly and see if I can get the motor to work again.
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  #35 (permalink)  
Old 06-25-2007, 01:00 PM
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My Kitamura is working again!! I was able to figure out which end of the magnet was positive and alternate the magnets in the housing. The method I used to figure out which end was the positive end involved a Volt Meter. Im pretty sure it was set on 200K for DC volts. With the magnet layed out in front of me and not closer than 3' or so to anything metal/steel. You can hold the positive line to one end of the magnet and the negative side to the other end of the magnet. Then switch ends. I got a slightly positive reading checking one way and a even slighter negative reading. Positive reading was between .4 and .8 volts. Negative reading was between .1 and .2 volts. I marked the end that I had the positive connector on when i got a positive reading and then alternated the magnets, leaving them loose for the trial run. The motor ran with the magnets in the correct place but not glued in. I glued 2 magnets in fri nite and the other magnet in sat a.m. I got the machine running in the late afternoon and everything is working good.

I now can notice a very slight squeek/clunk coming out if the Y axis motor. I guess I will be taking that motor apart soon to glue the magnets back in place in it. I will most likely replace the bearings in that motor also.
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  #36 (permalink)  
Old 07-02-2007, 08:30 PM
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The Y axis overloaded and shut down while I was running a program over the weekend. I took the front of the machine apart and pulled the servo motor. It only had one loose magnet, and the bearings sounded good. I cleaned everything up and glued the magnet back in place. (keeping track of how the magnet was located this time) After putting the motor back together and back in the machine. The machine is up and running again, and very quiet while cutting and in rapid traverse.

Now I can only wonder what my next learning experience will be?
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  #37 (permalink)  
Old 07-02-2007, 10:10 PM
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Thanks for posting how you finally fixed the motor. Interesting about using a meter to check the magnets, I will keep that in mind if I ever need to do the same.
Thanks
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Old 07-03-2007, 01:00 PM
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My pleasure Petro! Its the least I could do for all the great info Ive got from you and your forum. I will stop by here when Im on the internet, and see if I can help with any problems.

I had also heard you can float a magnet in a small pan(plastic) in a large tub (also plastic) water. Supposedly the magnet will spin so the + end is pointing north. I could only get one of my magnets to position itself correctly with this method. The Volt meter method is pretty straight forward. Its even possible to check the magnets while they are glued into the housing.
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Old 03-02-2009, 08:12 AM
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Im getting the same 01 Overload message. It happened about 20 seconds after hearing squeaking sounds from the Z axis. I am not sure if the magnets came unglued in the Z motor or if the bearings have gone out in the motor or, maybe the ball screw. Im taking it apart this morning and will post what I find later today.
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Old 03-03-2009, 04:28 PM
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I pulled the motor and took it apart. Magnets were fine, lots of dust in the brush area and 1 of the bearings was noisy. I replaced both of the bearings and cleaned up the inside of the motor. Put it back together today and Im getting the same "02 VRDY OFF" Servo alarm I got when I messed up the magnets last time. . Not sure why because I didnt touch the magnets this time. Kinda confused at this point so Im going to pull the motor back off and see if I messed something up.

If anyone has any ideas Id be happy to hear them.
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  #41 (permalink)  
Old 03-04-2009, 07:45 AM
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Took the motor apart looking for a crushed wire or something. Couldnt find anything that looked bad. Put it back together and hooked it up again. Cant get past the....

"Not Ready Alarm" Servo Alarm 02 (VRDY OFF) Does anyone know what VRDY OFF is?

Im going to walk away from this and take a offer from one of my ex employers to use his cnc mill to get my parts made for my customer. That will give me a few days to think about this and hopefully get some suggestions on which way to go to fix this..
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  #42 (permalink)  
Old 03-07-2009, 03:13 PM
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Exclamation Dc motor

Just to tell you that this kind of servomotor usually has a pulse coder that you must mark if you take it apart from the motor.
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Old 03-07-2009, 05:43 PM
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mykit1,

The VRDY alarm is telling you that the CNC sent a signal to the amplifier, but the amplifier didn't respond telling it that it was on.

Check for blown fuses on the amp, and check to see if the reset button on the drive is tripped.

Like I said before, I'm not all that familiar with this particular series of controls, so I'm not sure about the hardware layout in the cabinet. There *may* be fuses at each individual amp for incoming voltage. Check there if so, and then there may be fuses on the circuit board itself.

Cody Stamper



(Note: The opinions expressed in this post are my own and are not necessarily those of machinetoolhelp.com and its management)
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  #44 (permalink)  
Old 03-10-2009, 08:39 AM
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Thanks alexfanuc and codyst. Here is what I have found out..I got a hold of one of the head Kitamura repair guys in the area. Here are the steps he took me thru to find the problem. First thing he had me do was power up and find the row of alarm lights on the lower right corner of the Z board. On top of the back of the door is 3 boards/chassis units. The one on the right is the Z unit. On the lower right corneris about 7-8 lights with acronyms next to them. My acronym was OVC, that is a mechanical overload involving the brake.

Next he had me turn the power off and disconnect the 4 power wires to the Z board. The wires were blue,red,white and black. They are on the bottom of the board and arent necessarily in that order. Next he had me find the very small row of jumpers with acronyms next to them. The jumpers are very small pins that you "jump" with a very small white coupler. The couplers are on one pin and need to be moved to both pins. I jumped the TGLS pins. When I powered up the machine appeared normal, no alarms. At this point the motor should have had a released brake and I should have been able to spin it. I couldnt.

Turned the machine off and returned it to normal. (Un jump TGLS, and connected power wires). Took the motor off the machine and took it apart so i could access the wires that go to the electromagnetic brake. The Tech guy told me to connect them to a 110 outlet. Im sort of chicken so i connected to a car battery first. no response. Next I found a old power cord and wired it to the brake. Plugged it in and nothing happened. It should have activated the brake (released it). Im calling the Tech guy in a few minutes.. Im hoping he has a brake unit somewhere in a old box.

Ill let you know how it turns out.
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  #45 (permalink)  
Old 03-11-2009, 03:19 PM
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The new magnetic brake from Fanuc has a dealer cost of $1500.00, not including shipping. The Fanuc Tech guy told me that any Fanuc M10 motor with a brake and a straight shaft will work. I found a used 1 on ebay for $600.00, and $375.00 to ship it over nite. It should be here tomorrow afternoon. I should be able to swap my pulse counter and be good to go.
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  #46 (permalink)  
Old 03-13-2009, 03:31 PM
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The motor I bought was a 10M Fanuc Servo motor. It had a straight shaft and a brake, it came off of a Mazak machine. With my pulse counter and shaft adapter it works perfectly on my machine. Its nice to know I have a spare parts motor laying around now.
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